Z histórie spodnej bielizne...

Už v starom Grécku a Ríme sa objavuje istý druh spodnej bielizne - ženy si pruhmi látky ovíjali prsia, aby sa im pri chôdzi nehýbali. Dôvod, prečo v stredoveku vzniklo spodna bielizeň, bola snaha chrániť vrchný odev pred telesnou nečistotou.

historia_28823

Tvorila ho jednoduchá košeľa, ktorej pôvod možno hľadať v antike. V 14. storočí začala byť (tak ako vrchný odev) výraznejšie tvarovaná, pozostávajúc z viacerých, samostatne strihaných kusov. Zdobila sa výšivkami a čipkami. V 17. storočí, vďaka látkam dovážaným z Turecka, sa spodné košele začali šiť z ušľachtilých materiálov - hodvábnych saténov a damaškov.

Na prelome 16. a 17. storočia sa (v španielskom odeve) objavuje prvý korzet: vystužený kovovými prútmi, oceľovými platňami a vypchávkami; nosili ho ženy aj muži. Renesančná doba prispela k rozvoju spodnej bielizne aj vznikom špecializovaného nočného odevu: bola to plátenná košeľa a čepiec; v náročnejšej podobe vyšívaná striebrom, zlatom a zdobená čipkami. V čase baroka a rokoka vznikla šnurovačka - vystužená veľrybími kosticami, so šnurovaním na prednom i zadnom diele.

V 18. storočí si začali ženy obliekať tzv. pobyty, určitý druh spodnej bielizne, ktorá sa zalomila okolo trupu od chrbta a viazankami sa uzavrela v prednej časti trupu. Tieto pobyty boli často vystužené a v rokoch 1750 – 1760 sa stali známe ako korzety. Korzet sa stal obľúbený u aristokratickej šľachty. Malý pás bol symbolom krásy a v čase baroka a rokoka vznikla šnurovačka - vystužená veľrybími kosticami, so šnurovaním na prednom i zadnom diele. Toto všetko spôsobovalo veľkú bolesť u väčšiny žien, v niektorých prípadoch dochádzalo k poškodeniu vnútorných orgánov.

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V 20.storočí dochádza k rozvoju výroby spodnej bielizne. Dizajnéri museli medzi sebou súťažiť v kvalite daného tovaru. Prispeli k tomu aj nové materiály a iná filozofia myslenia. Preto niet divu, že korzet v tom klasickom ponímaní úplne ustúpil zo šatníka v 30-tych rokoch v Európe aj v Amerike. Nahradený bol opaskami, ale prežil ako istý druh kostýmu, či "sexy" spodnej bielizne.

V súčasnej dobe nám nevystačí znalosť jedného termínu pre túto spodnú bielizeň. Môže byť napríklad k pásu, k bokom, s ramienkami i bez, ale aj s rukávmi a podobne. Ponúkame vám niekoľko výrazov aj s popisom na ich rozlíšenie.

Korzet
- silno vystužený odev, s predným alebo zadným zapínaním bez ramienok, tvarujúci partie pásu, žalúdka a brucha
- vyhotovuje sa na mieru a je v ponuke špecializovaných predajniach

Corsage
- existuje vo vystuženom aj nevystuženom prevedení bez ramienok, dĺžka môže siahať až k bokom

Corselet
- je vyhotovený z elastického materiálu, vyhotovený z jedného dielu s ramienkami a podväzkami, tvaruje poprsie, pás, brucho a boky

Girdle
- tesne priliehavý návlek siahajúci od pásu po bedrá, zhotovený z elastického materiálu, z podväzkami alebo bez podväzkov

Teddy/Body
- jednodielny kus bez rukávov, v kombinácii tielka a nohavičiek, často sa zapína v rozkroku, vyhotovený je z elastického materiálu, vo voľnej verzii je to "kamizola"

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Ďalší kus spodnej bielizne prinieslo napoleónske obdobie - spodné nohavice. Boli voľné, naberané a siahali do polovice lýtok. Šili sa z jemného bieleho plátna a na spodnom okraji ich zdobili volány a čipky. Táto podoba spodnej bielizne pretrvala až do začiatku 20. storočia.

Spodná bielizeň tvorila v minulosti veľmi dôležitú súčasť výbavy nevesty - zhotovovala sa v takom množstve, aby vystačilo po celý život. V posledných rokoch 19. storočia sa však život nečakane zrýchlil, a aj móda sa začala meniť v nebývalom tempe - a tak starostlivo pripravovaná bielizeň vyšla z módy skôr, ako ju majiteľka stihla vynosiť. Zároveň sa zrodilo hnutie za ozdravenie ženského odevu a začal sa boj proti korzetu a nenormálne štíhlemu drieku, ktorý bol kritériom krásy európskych žien od čias gotiky.

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Roky 1925 - 1950

Po prvej svetovej vojne spodná bielzeň nadobudla viac-menej dnešnú podobu: Ženy začali nosiť tvarované podprsenky, podväzkové pásy a elastické korzety (body), ktoré zpevňujú telo bez toho, aby ho deformovali; no a niekdajšia spodná košeľa sa zmenila na kombiné.

3 komentárov

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