Módne hity prierezom dejín v skratke

Jedno zo slovenských prísloví hovorí „šaty robia človeka“, talianske príslovie dopĺňa, že „šaty zdôrazňujú osobnosť“. V každom prípade,  módne novinky a doplnky ovplyvňovali behom storočí nielen Európu ale aj celý svet.

Móda zasahovala a stále bude pôsobiť rovnako na ženy aj mužov, mladých aj starých , bohatých aj chudobných... Ženy boli v móde vždy smelšie a obliekali na seba čokoľvek, čo bolo módne a štýlové, čo podtrhovalo ich aktuálnu náladu a názor.

ELEGANCIA Z FRANCÚZSKA, KTORÁ OVPLYVNILA POLOVICU EURÓPY

Vysoký spoločenský status charakterizovali husté a dlhé vlasy. Niet divu, že v móde sa uplatnili rôzne parochne, ktoré poznali už starí Egypťania. Najväčšiu popularitu však zažili v období baroka. Boli obrovské a zložité. Ich nositelia veľakrát mali na hlave parochňu, ktorá dvakrát prevyšovala ich hlavu. Doménou francúzskych šľachticov a francúzskeho kráľa Ľudovíta XIV. boli tzv. alonžové parochne, ktoré siahali až po ramená. Jeden z dôvodov sa uvádza aj ten, že francúzsky kráľ Ľudovít XIV. sa hanbil sa svoju lysinu a preto začal nosiť parochňu. Vysoká šľachta vo Francúzsku príliš nedbala na hygienu, preto bolo pohodlnejšie si vlasy ostrihať a nasadiť parochňu. V období rokoka, dámske parochne dosiahli svoju pompéznosť do extrému. Dámy z vyššej šľachty nosili na hlavách rôzne konštrukcie a modely, čo im znemožňovali pohyb.

300320

OD OBMEDZOVANIA KORZETOM K SLOBODE „TURECKÉHO KOSTÝMU“

Ako ženy tak aj muži nosili korzety.  V rôznych obdobiach histórie tento odev spodnej bielizne bol využívaný z estetických dôvodov na tvarovanie postavy. K zmene došlo vďaka Amélii Jenks Bloomerovej (27. mája 1818 - 30. decembra 1894), ktorá sa zastávala práv žien a striedmosti. Nevytvorila síce pre ženy reformný odevný štýl, sama však odhodila korzet a vymenila ho za pohodlnú tuniku a voľné nohavice (bloomers), čím vyvolala škandál. Jej nápad a odvaha našili veľmi rýchlo uplatnenie  ihneď potom, ako ženy objavili čaro bicyklovania a kolektívnych športových hier. Stala sa rovnako prvou ženou, ktorá vlastnila, prevádzkovala a upravovala noviny určené ženám.

20.STOROČIE VEKOM SLOBODY A OBJAVOV V MÓDE

Podprsenka

Koncom 19. storočia boli udelené prvé patenty na podprsenky Francúzske Herminie Cadolle a Američanke Marie Tucek pod názvom „Breast supporter“. V roku 1907 sa objavila prvá podprsenka a to hneď v americkom vydaní časopisu Vogue, zaujala hlavne Francúzov, ktorý ju volali soutien-gorge.

Za oficiálnu objaviteľku podprsenky sa považuje američanka Mary Phelps-Jacobsová, podľa iných zdrojov, však bola skutočnou objaviteľkou jej francúzska slúžka. Každopádne, za jej vznik vďačíme náhode. Vraj, keď sa chystala na ples, zo šiat jej vyliezal korzet a slúžka jej ušila z dvoch hodvábnych šatiek podprsenku, ktorá sa uväzovala stuhou. Jej prvá podprsenka niesla meno Caresse Crosby a v roku 1914 si dala objav patentovať. Ďalším medzníkom pre podprsenky sa stal rok 1915, keď bol oficiálne uznaný za súčasť odevu magazínom The Lady.

Patent v rukách spoločnosti Warnes Brother Corset Company

Novú históriu a rozkvet začína podprsenka písať, keď Mary svoj patent predáva spoločnosti Warnes Brother Corset Company. Spoločnosť zaviedla označovanie S,M,L a v roku 1935 prišla s novými veľkosťami podprseniek, ako ich poznáme dnes – A,B,C,D. Zle časy pre výrobu podprseniek priniesla druhá svetová, vzhľadom na nedostatok materiálu. Ženy však boli vynaliezave a bielizeň si šili doma.

Nové pančuchy – nylonky

Objavenie nylonového vlákna v roku 1938 v Amerike sa považuje za dôležitý vo výrobe pančúch. Do Európy sa nylonové pančuchy dostali po skončení druhej svetovej vojny. V roku 1959 boli vynájdené nylonové pančuchové nohavičky Allanom Gantom v Spojených štátoch Amerických. Viedla ho k tomu jeho osobná iniciatíva. V tom čase, sa jeho tehotná manželka sťažovala na nosenie pančuchového podväzkového pásu, ktorý ju obmedzoval.  Aby jej uľahčil, v roku 1959 zaviedol výrobu v ich spoločnosti Glen Raven Mill na kombináciu nohavičiek a pančúch (pančuchové nohavičky). So sériovou výrobou začali v tom istom roku. Zaujímavosťou je, že prvá dodávka pančúch do obchodov  v počte 4 milióny kusov, sa vypredala už za štyri dni.

Sexy plavky - bikiny

V 20. rokoch minulého storočia, ženy do plaviek nechudli, ale skôr priberali. Strih a dĺžka plaviek sa na pláži a kúpaliskách kontroloval meraním, aby náhodou nedošlo k pohoršeniu. Keď prišiel Louis Regard s novým strihom, úsporného modelu plaviek - svetoznáme bikini, všetky modelky ho odmietli. Nakoniec 5. júla 1946 model bikini predviedla kabaretná tanečnica Micheline Bernardini.

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