Rakúska kaviarenská kultúra

Napísal Rakúska Turistika 17. máj 2022

Kaviarne patria k Viedni ako Mozart k Salzburgu. Do elegantných kaviarní s bohatou históriou chodí však kvôli kofeínu iba minimum ľudí. Čas strávený v kaviarni je totiž určitý druh kultúry pokojného premýšľania a vzrušujúcich debát. 

wien_tourismus_p_rigaud

Zdroj foto: Wien Tourismus, Peter Rigaud

K vybaveniu starých viedenských kaviarní patria mramorové stolčeky, čalúnené pohovky, ako aj rakúske a zahraničné noviny v typických držiakoch z ohýbaného dreva. Melanž alebo iné kávové špeciality vám prinesú na striebornom podnose – vždy s pohárom čerstvej pramenitej vody. Nezabudnuteľnú atmosféru dotvára etiketa a elegancia vrchných čašníčok a čašníkov. Môže sa stať, že budú trošičku „nevrlí“ – ale to patrí k typickému viedenskému šarmu. Láska ku kaviarňam je však príznačná aj pre iné rakúske mestá.

Kaviareň – obývačka umení

Chodili tam Sigmund Freud, Andy Warhol i Gustav Klimt. Všetci trávili nespočetné hodiny vo viedenských kaviarňach. Dôvod je ľahko pochopiteľný: príchody a odchody, rituály a stretnutia s priateľmi a kolegami pomáhajú totiž vytvárať jedinečnú atmosféru.

História kávy

Kaviarne a kaviarenská kultúra sú synonymom Viedne. Aby sme však spoznali skutočný príbeh kávy, musíme sa vybrať do minulosti, a síce do roku 1683. Osmanská ríša sa vtedy opäť pokúšala dobyť Viedeň. V slávnej bitke bojovali proti Osmanom Svätá rímska ríša národa nemeckého, Habsburská ríša a spojenci z Poľska a Litvy. Po víťazstve nad osmanskou armádou našiel jeden generál z poľsko-litovskej aliancie v opustenom tábore vrecia so zvláštnymi bôbmi. Niektorí si mysleli, že by to mohlo byť krmivo pre ťavy alebo – ešte horšie – ťaví hnoj. Generál však začal s plodmi experimentovať, pridal k horkému odvaru cukor a mlieko a vytvoril napokon nový nápoj: kávu.

Novinka mala veľký úspech: už v roku 1685 sa v celej Viedni otvorili kaviarne a postupom času sa zrodila známa kaviarenská kultúra. V období najväčšieho rozkvetu na začiatku roku 1900 existovalo vo Viedni asi 600 kaviarní.

Čím sa vyznačujú viedenské kaviarne?

Kaviarne nájdeme v mnohých európskych mestách, no pohodová atmosféra viedenských kaviarní je celosvetovo neprekonateľná. Nikde inde vám kávu neprinesú na striebornom podnose s pohárom vody a kávovou lyžičkou na jeho okraji. Spoločenská etiketa, rituály a elegantní čašníci v čiernych vestách, ktorí sú vždy trocha rázni, vytvárajú unikátnu atmosféru kaviarní vo Viedni.
Interiér kaviarní sa tiež takmer nezmenil: stále tu nájdete mramorové stolčeky, čalúnené pohovky, slávne tonetové stoličky č. 14, ako aj miestne a medzinárodné noviny v samostatných držiakoch z ohýbaného dreva. Samozrejme, že existujú aj znamenité výnimky, ako je napríklad nezameniteľný dizajn kaviarne Prückel oproti Múzeu úžitkového umenia (MAK), ktorý sa inšpiroval 50. rokmi 20. storočia. Alebo sieť kaviarní Aida, založená v roku 1925, typická ružovým priečelím a zariadením interiéru.

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