Z histórie účesov II.

Nie vždy platilo, že vlasy sú korunou krásy. Bolo to práve obdobie Baroka a Rokoka, kedy muži a ženy nosili na hlavách nadrozmerné účesy.


V tomto období sa na hlavách panovníkov, šľachty ako aj mešťanov objavovali rôzne extravagantné vlasové kreácie vytvorené  pomocou vlásenkárov.

Baroko (1600 – 1700)

Vďaka estetickému hendikepu, ktorým trpel kráľ Ľudovít XIII. (1601-1643), zažívajú parochne nový boom aj medzi mužmi. Budúci kráľ Francúzska Ľudovít, nie je jediný z francúzskych panovníkov, ktorý začína veľmi skoro strácať vlasy. Touto estetickou nevýhodou trpel aj kráľ Slnko Ľudovít XIV. (1638-1715). Ten si zavčasu začína holiť hlavu a vlasy nahrádza bohatými a prepracovanými parochňami, ktoré núti nosiť aj svojich dvoranov.

Pánske parochne

Vlásenkári počas panovania Ľudovíta XIV. zažívajú veľké zisky, pretože módny diktát určuje, kto a aký typ parochne musí nosiť Pre  šľachticov a dvoranov vznikali pôsobivé vlásenky, s veľkými a tuhými kučerami, ktoré padali až pod ramena a tak umocňovali výšku jej nositeľa. Najdrahšie parochne sa vyrábali z ľudských vlasov a stávali sa často predmetom krádeží. Z dobových prameňov sa dozvedáme, že drobní zlodejíčkovia, špecializujúci sa na parochne, prepadávali v 18. storočí cestujúcich v dostavníkoch a kočoch.

Foto: Wikipedia

Dámske účesy

Ako to už bývalo na francúzskom dvore, veľký vplyv na jeho život mali kráľove milenky. Jedna z nich,  markýza Mária Angélique de Fontagnes (1661-1681) diktovala trendy v dámskych účesoch. Stihla sa zapísať do dejín vlasovej tvorby aj napriek jej krátkemu životu. Hitom sa stáva v rokoch 1690-1710, spevnená krajková čelenka Fontange (ako jej priezvisko), ktorá sa umiestňovala vysoko do vyčesaných vlasov.

Foto: Wikipedia

Madame de Pompadour, vlastným menom Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson (1721-1764), známa metresa Ľudovíta XV. (1710-1774), zaviedla natupírované účesy z vlasov začesaných dozadu z čela, napriek tomu, že sama uprednostňovala jednoduchšie účesy.


Rokoko (1735-1790)

Rokoko je obdobím nákladných a dekorovaných účesov a parochní pre ženy, ako tomu bolo v predchádzajúcom období pre mužov. Niektoré z dámskych účesov merajú aj vyše pol metra. Najznámejšou propagátorkou tohto typu účesov a parochní sa stala francúzska kráľovná Mária Antoinetta (1755-1793). Zaujímavá perlička, ktorá sa týka „nadrozmerných účesov“ kráľovnej  je, že v paláci vo Versailles musela dať zvýšiť niekoľko dverí, aby sa do nich vlasové kreácie vošli... Jej osobný kaderník Leonard (1751-1820) jej zapletá do vlasov rôzne šperky, stužky, ovocie, vtáčie pierka, lode, vypreparovaného vtáka ale dokonca aj prístroj, na rozprašovanie parfumu.

Foto: Wikipedia 

Prvých účes, ktorý  ukázala Parížanom, vyvolal verejné pozdvihnutie, pretože dosahoval až 180 centimetrov. Ďalším verejným pohoršení a odsudením sa stala informácia, ktorá sa dostala v období hladomoru medzi poddaných v 70. rokoch 18. storočia. Pospolitý ľud, sužovaný hladom sa dozvedel, že Rakušanka používa púder na parochne vyrábaný z múky. To bol začiatok jej tragického konca.

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