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Okolo Zadaru, na bicykli, za zážitkami a kúpaním...

Napísal TS KB 02. august 2022

Celodenný výlet na bicykli? Na pobreží Dalmácie? Ani tu nemusíte stráviť celý deň v horizontálnej polohe. Okolie Zadaru ponúka malebný poznávací okruh, ktorý sa so zastávkami na kúpanie a občerstvenie môže natiahnuť takmer na celý deň. A skoro si ani nevšimnete, že ste prešli päťdesiat kilometrov.

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Teraz v horúcom lete? Prečo nie!

Bicykel si môžete požičať na mieste, väčšie hotely majú depa vrátane elektrobicyklov a mestské požičovne si účtujú maximálne 20 eur na deň.  Vyskúšali ste už bulharského Draga, ktorý tu vládne?

Medzi cyprusmi a figovníkmi za kováčom a zubárom

Zo západného predmestia Zadaru, štvrte Bórik, vyrážame ráno, vzduch je svieži, pláže prázdnejšie. Menšiu hotelovú zónu strieda  Falkensteiner Premium Camping Zadar (s bungalovmi a stabilnými, luxusnými stanmi). Obchádzame záliv a naskytne sa nám pohľad na špičku ostrova. Šliapeme popri vode cez obytnú štvrť, kde sa pred domami nachádzajú i slovenské autá. Znamená to jedno, Chorvátsko je pre Slovákov stále veľkou motivácou a cítia sa tu ako doma. Po chvílke sa chodník skončí a popri mori sa dá prejsť len pešky, na bicykli by to išlo len s vyšliapaním do kopčeka.  A potom päť kilometrov lesom medzi cyprusmi a figovníkmi, po kamenistej poľnej ceste. Zvládne to každý, dokonca aj na mestskom bicykli, nebojte sa. Potom vás privíta pokojné Petrčane, malebná zátoka s kotviacimi jachtami a ospalými kaviarničkami na brehu.
Hlavná cesta a závora oddeľujú na konci poloostrova prémiové letovisko Falkensteiner Resort Punta Skala. Záleží na vašom rozpočte, ale stojí to tu minimálne za návštevu. Od pláží na pobreží sa dvíha svah so stromovým hájom, kde nájdete vynikajúcu reštauráciu s morskými plodmi Bracera, ktorej šéfkuchár Paul Ivic získal michelinskú hviezdu. "Kovač, zubatac a orada," vymenúva najžiadanejšie pochúťky na svojom jedálnom lístku. A ak budete mať trochu šťastia, alebo skôr pred hlavnou sezónou, môžete zo svojho kresla pozorovať delfíny špliechajúce na otvorenom mori...
Na vrchole sa nachádzajú dva hotelové komplexy, rodinný Falkensteiner Family Hotel Diadora a len "pre dospelých“ Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa Iadera, nájdete tu aj apartmánový dom  Falkensteiner Residences Senia.
Všetkým spoločne slúži rozsiahle športové centrum Fortis Club, ktoré ponúka perfektné podmienky na 25 športov vrátane haly na elektronické športy. Celoročne sem chodia trénovať športovci rôznych druhov a úrovní, dokonca sa tu zastavil aj Novak Djokovič. Môžete si tu objednať i lekcie tenisu od holandského tenistu Paula Haarhuisa alebo sa prihlásiť na (stredne pokročilý) triatlon, ktorý organizuje slávny havajský šampión Luc van Lierde.

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Tajomstvo soľných kvetov a vína kráľa Krešmíra

Späť na cestu, ešte desať kilometrov a sme v Nine, romantickom starobylom mestečku za mostom na ostrove so slávnou plážou, najmenšou katedrálou na svete a salinou, miestom, kde sa z mora získava soľ a to už od čias starých Rimanov, ktorým čiastočne slúžila ako platidlo.
Zaujímavá návšteva, počas ktorej uvidíte, ako funguje 55-hektárová kaskáda lagún so špecifickou flórou a faunou. "Zber" trvá tri mesiace. Najcennejším miestnym produktom je horká čokoláda so soľnými kvetmi a najobľúbenejším suvenírom je vrecúško čerstvo odparenej voňavej soli.
Kto má chuť, môže prejsť ďalších desať kilometrov po pobreží do mesta Vir. Spiatočná cesta nás zavedie na vrchol kopca (48 metrov!) nad Punta Skala, kde sa nachádza kráľovská vinica. Od 11. storočia od čias kráľa Krešmíra, obnovená v roku 2009, produkuje 200 000 litrov vína ročne. "Máme tu viac ako 250 slnečných dní v roku a chválime trojitú silu slnka - od lúčov, ohrievania skalnatého podložia a odrazu od mora," hovorí jeden z majiteľov.
Treba však priznať, že posedenie a výhľad na more si zaslúžia väčšiu pochvalu ako samotné víno - Chardonnay, Muškát, Crljenak, Pošip barrique alebo Pošip prestige. Ale v kombinácii s tanierom dobrôt to rozhodne nie je zbytočná zastávka, práve naopak! Navyše používajú špeciálne recyklovateľné zátky zo skla a keramiky, ktoré lepšie zabraňujú vzniku baktérií ako tradičný korok. Nazývajú sa Vinolok a vyrábajú sa v Českej republike.
Krátkym zjazdom pozdĺž vinohradu sa dostaneme opäť do Petrčane. Teraz ide len o to, kam do toho mora spadneme. Na rušnejšej pláži, pod stromami alebo pri opustenom móle s hojdajúcou sa loďou? Je to na vás, pobrežie Jadranu tu patrí len vám, popoludnie upadá do nevídaného bezčasia. Dokonca aj krátky spánok je povolený, do nášho hotela v Bóriku zostáva necelá hodina.

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Jáson and Argonauti na balkánskej diskotéke v opere
Popoludní sa môžeme vydať opačným smerom na Mestský polostrov, do starého mesta Zadar. Zo štvrte Bórik pozdĺž vody je to dvadsať minút pokojnej vyhliadkovej jazdy. Potom nás privítajú v pôvabnom miniprístave Foša pri mestských hradbách z roku 1543, ktoré boli pred piatimi rokmi zapísané na zoznam svetového dedičstva UNESCO. Stačí sa poprechádzať úzkymi uličkami polostrova po bielej dlažbe, pozrieť sa na majestátnu katedrálu svätej Anastázie alebo byzantskú katedrálu svätého Donáta a potom sa usadiť na ľadovú kávu v tieni.
Mesto si zaslúži ešte dlhšiu prechádzku; nájdete tu stopy tritisícročnej histórie. Vedeli ste, že miestny renesančný básnik Peter Zoranić pripisuje založenie mesta bájnemu námorníkovi Iásonovi a jeho Argonautom?
Odporúčam aspoň Kniežací palác, ktorý bol nedávno z prostriedkov EÚ zrekonštruovaný na živé múzeum obrazov (Šest salonskih priča), premietajúce históriu mesta. Prezentácia je skutočne vydarená, jasne zrozumiteľná, nie dlhá a vôbec nie nudná. Pred prázdninami sme stihli aj dokonalú výstavu makabróznych postáv Ratka Petrića, súčasníka Jana Švankmajera. Z jeho diela Československo 1968 mi ešte teraz behá mráz po chrbte.
Potom sa už len stačí vrátiť na večeru do hotela Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik. A ak vám zostanú nejaké sily, vráťte sa do mesta po zotmení. Nočné svetlá mu dodajú ďalší rozmer... Ak si rozšírite (pod)vedomie o nočnú balkánsku diskotéku v klube Opera, dalmátske spomienky zostanú oveľa intenzívnejšie.

P.S. Ak hľadáte ďalšie cyklistické inšpirácie pre Zadar, potom vedzte, že hotel Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik organizuje na jeseň štvordňový kemp, ktorý vyvrcholí 22. októbra cestnými pretekmi Granfondo na 112 km s prevýšením 1034 metrov. Stretneme sa tam? 
Na vlastnej koži vyskúšal a osobne odporúča český športový novinár Tomáš Nohejl 

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    Say goodbye to mediocre outcomes and hello to a physique that instructions consideration. After six reps,
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    Now do one other 6 partial reps, pause for 3 seconds in the backside squat after which finish
    with a last six partial reps. That's because you'll be making use of slightly identified approach
    known as Satan Units.

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