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Spoznajte kulinárske umenie vo Viedni

Napísal Rakúska Turistika 24. február 2023

Od rezňa cez špičkovú vegetariánsku kuchyňu až po typickú krčmu Beisl: vo Viedni sa hostia môžu dobre najesť i o polnoci, nechať sa rozmaznávať regionálnymi špecialitami pri brunchi a vychutnať si fantastické menu (takmer) v každú hodinu. Užite si výnimočnosť.

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Zdroj foto:  Reštaurácia Labstelle / Viedeň (c) Netzwerk Kulinarik / Martina Siebenhandl

Impozantné chute na tanieri

Ak hľadáte vône a chute viedenskej kuchyne, nájdete ich v krčmách Beisl, pohostinstvách, reštauráciách a kaviarňach. Obklopení umením, kultúrou a vinicami (s výhľadom na Dunaj) sa pri poháriku vína môžete zamilovať i do reštaurácie „Heuriger“. Viedeň je jedinou metropolou na svete, ktorá sa v rámci svojich hraníc môže popýšiť mnohými vinohradníckymi podnikmi.

Apropo umenie: Viedeň je dynamickým potpourri rôznych kultúr, ktoré inšpirujú kuchárov, aby vytvárali impozantné umelecké diela a ponúkali ich hosťom aj v tých najskrytejších zákutiach mesta. Nestarnúca klasika i moderná kuchyňa existujú vo Viedni vedľa seba celkom prirodzene: na drevených lavičkách, kaviarenských kreslách i značkových stoličkách.

Umelci v kuchyniach pritom dbajú na regionálne suroviny. Čerstvé ovocie, zeleninu, ryby a mäso dodávajú na trhy a do reštaurácií vo Viedni farmári z úrodnej podunajskej oblasti. Tieto vysokokvalitné potraviny sa tešia veľkej obľube najmä u hviezdnych kuchárov, ktorí si ich cenia ako zlato.

Pre skutočných gurmánov

Viedeň vás oslní špičkovými reštauráciami: v podniku Tian nájdete vychýrenú vegetariánsku kuchyňu, v reštaurácii Steirereck 2 hviezdičky a v Schwarzes Kameel bohatú históriu.

>> Luxus na tanieri

Med, slimáky a spol.

Vo Viedni sa darí poľnohospodárstvu: na streche bzučia včely, na šaláte si pochutnávajú slimáky a v okrajových častiach mesta rastú figy.

>> Delikatesy z Viedne

Viedenská „šnicľa“ so zemiakovým šalátom

Zlato sa považovalo vtedy za liek. Takýto márnotratný luxus sa začal presadzovať do takej miery, že to musela benátska správa v roku 1514 napokon zakázať... Pri hľadaní aspoň optickej náhrady sa dospelo napokon k trojobalu". A toto - dnes pre Rakúšanov príznačné jedlo - sa zachovalo v rovnakej podobe podnes: „zlatistý, tenučký a cez okraje taniera vykúkajúci rezeň". V Rakúsku sa „povinne" pripravuje z teľaciny.

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Zdroj foto: Austrian National Tourist Office(c)Wolfgang Schardt

Príprava trvá 45 minút (časovo skôr náročné), porcie 4

Potrebujete:

• 4 teľacie rezne/ 200 g (zo šálu teľacieho stehna)
• na obaľovanie: múka, vajce, žemľová strúhanka
• soľ
• na vypráženie: bravčová masť alebo olej

Šalát:

• 300 g rohlíkových šalátových zemiakov (alebo iného druhu, ktorý sa nerozvarí)
• 1 červená cibuľa
• soľ, korenie, cukor
• vínny ocot
• olej (najlepšie z tekvicových jadier)
• 1 čaj. lyž. estragónovej horčice
• 1 zväzok pažítky

Postup:

Rezne je potrebné naklepať skutočne natenko a osoliť ich. Obaliť z oboch strán najprv v múke, zbytočnú múku „oklepkať" vykúpať v rozšľahanom vajíčku a napokon odtečené „otočiť" v strúhanke. Napokon vypražiť do zlata v dostatočnom množstve bravčovej masti alebo oleja. Upozornenie: rezne musia v tuku doslova plávať a panvicou treba občas potriasť, aby tuk i rezeň zostali „v pohybe". Tak sa obal na mäse „prevzdušní" a rezeň získa želaný vlnitý vzhľad. Dôležitá poznámka: pri obracaní do rezňa v žiadnom prípade nepichajte vidličkou!

Rezne sa však dajú pripraviť aj v rúre: napanírované rezne (múka, vajce, strúhanka) ponorte obalené do oleja a potom ich uložte do rúry na plech (použite savý papier na pečenie - nie je povinné, ale vhodné!) a v rúre s horným a dolným nastavovaním upečte pri teplote cca 180° C (pokým sú hotové = získajú želanú zlatú farbu). V teplovzdušnej rúre a na viacerých plechoch pri teplote 160° C. Výhodou je, že zvládnete všetky rezne naraz.

Po upražení odstráňte kuchynskými papierovými uterkami prebytočný tuk a servírujte.

Šalát - ošúpte cibuľu, nakrájajte ju nadrobno. Umyté neošúpané zemiaky uvarte v osolenej vode (v závislosti od veľkosti zemiakov trvá cca 30 minút). Ošúpané uvarené zemiaky nakrájajte kým sú teplé na kolieska. Zalejte marinádou z vínneho octu, oleja, cukru, horčice, soli, čierneho korenia a cibule a dochuťte. Zemiakový šalát by nemal mať príliš tekutú ale ani príluš hustú konzistenciu.

Suroviny:
• 300 g rohlíkových šalátových zemiakov (alebo iného druhu, ktorý sa nerozvarí)
• 1 červená cibuľa
• soľ, korenie, cukor
• vínny ocot
• olej (najlepšie z tekvicových jadier)
• 1 čaj. lyž. estragónovej horčice
• 1 zväzok pažítky

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