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Art Déco a móda

Napísal femme 22. jún 2008

V období Art Déca sa dĺžka sukní menila v nepriamej úmere k cene akcií - pri veľkom krachu na burze bol teda lem sukní najvyššie...

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Hľadanie modernosti sa v 20-tych rokoch začalo novými účesmi. Ujal sa ľahko udržiavateľný krátky zostrih, ktorý spôsobil revolúciu v klobučníctve a na hlavu sa začali aranžovať pozoruhodné, fantazijne upravené "hrncovité útvary".
Koncom 20-tych rokov sa objavil tzv. etonský zostrih (podľa vzoru chlapčenských účesov z rovnomennej školy) a moderný vzhľad bol daný "mini-účesom" skrývajúcim sa pod módnym "zvonom" spolu s visiacimi náušnicami a množstvom cinkajúcich náramkov. Imidž dotvárala stále prítomná pudrenka - či už v ruke alebo v malej korálkovej kabelke.

V tomto období sa zrodila filmová žena - vamp. Do centra pozornosti vniesla oči - ako dramatický výrazový prostriedok. Oči ženy - vamp boli orámované čiernou linkou a hľadeli prenikavo spod hlboko stiahnutých exotických turbanov, čeleniek či diadémov, zdôrazňujúc zamračenosť, ustrašenosť či chlípnosť hrdinky. Dramatický efekt dotvárali rubínové pery.

Dramatickou zmenou prešli v medzivojnovom období aj sukne - skracovali sa, až dosiahli tzv. charlestonovskú dĺžku. Tým sa skončila vláda šiat, ktoré by ženám bránili v pohybe... "Vystavené" nohy stimulovali rozvoj pančuchového priemyslu a objavil sa viskózový hodváb. Svetlo sveta uzrel "splošťovač", ktorý upravoval ženskú postavu do rovných, tubových šiat: prsia "prestali existovať", pás klesol až bedrám a pozornosť sa sústredila na nohy. Jedným z módnych symbolov doby sa stali blúzky nosené voľne cez boky spolu s krátkou plisovanou sukňou.

V 30-tych rokoch sa sukne začali opäť predlžovať a nastal rozpad jednotného štýlu. Predĺžili a zvlnili sa tiež vlasy a "hrncové" klobúky vystriedali malé koketné "utvary" zdobené perím, umiestňované na bok hlavy.
Útly pás dám bol v medzivojnovom období kontrastne doplňovaný nadmernou šírkou ramien - pravdepodobne ako dôsledok všeobecnej inklinácie k športu, osobitne plávaniu. V tomto čase sa objavili aj prvé tenistky bez pančúch a rozvoj golfu priniesol praktické a pohodlné štýlové oblečenie. Presvedčenie o blahodárnom vplyve slnečného kúpeľa na ľudský organizmus podnietilo vznik pokrokových modelov plaviek...

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