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Sliezsky Manchester, český brokát aj Moravská gobelínka

Napísal CzechTourism 19. január 2024

Klobúky Hückel, hodvábne kravaty Schiel, gobelíny alebo nádherne zdobené brokáty z Jeseníkov poznal celý svet. Pozná ich vlastne aj dnes, len pod inými názvami – aj vám určite niečo hovoria mená spoločností Tonak alebo Hedva Český Brokát.

Vydajte sa s nami po stopách zlatej éry českého textilu

Moravský Manchester

Poznáte výraz rakúsky alebo moravský Manchester? V 19. storočí sa tak hovorilo  Brnu, ktoré vtedy objemom textilnej výroby, množstvom podnikov a exportnými možnosťami patrilo k najpriemyselnejším centrám rakúskej monarchie. Rýchlym tempom rozvoja vlnárskeho priemyslu pripomínalo britský Manchester, mesto, ktoré tiež prežilo svoj najväčší rozvoj v období priemyselnej revolúcie v 19. storočí. Opozitom fabrík, industriálnych štvrtí a robotníckych kolónií boli luxusné vily rodín majiteľov textilných tovární. K najznámejším patrí slávna vila Tugendhat, pamiatka UNESCO, vila Löw-Beer či vila vila Stiassni.

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 Foto: Brno, Spilberk, Brněnsko z.s.

Sliezsky Manchester

Tak sa zasa zvyklo zasa hovorievať trojici miest Rýmařov, Krnov a  Bruntál v podhorí Jeseníkov. O ich slávu a rozmach sa postarala nenápadná modrá rastlinka - ľan. Ľanové výrobky boli trvanlivé a lacné, výroba plátna patrila k tradičným miestnym remeslám a z ľanu sa vyrábalo takmer všetko, od šiat, šatiek, bielizne, vriec až po plachty na furmanské vozy či povrazy.
V roku 1746 majiteľ janovického panstva, gróf Ferdinand Bonaventura Harrach, založil v Rýmařove preslávenú manufaktúru na výrobu plátna, ktorá sa stala najvýznamnejším podnikom svojho druhu na Morave i v celej rakúskej monarchii. Harrachovci na Rýmařovsko pozvali tkáča zo Šluknovska a nechali ho pre nich postaviť niekoľko nových dedín a kolónií: tak vznikli v roku 1748 Harrachov alebo Ferdinandov, pomenovaný po samotnom grófovi. Po jeho manželke Růžene Harrachovej dostala meno osada Růžová, založená blízko Janušova v roku 1757, ako posledná vznikla kolónia Nové Pole. Každá rodina dostala na užívanie domček, postavený na náklady vrchnosti, tkáči si ich kúpili na dlhodobý úver.

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Foto: Bruntál, zámok, Euroregion Praděd

Harrachovská manufaktúra a textilné tradície Krnova

Tovar z janovickej manufaktúry bol enormne žiadaný, v ďalších desaťročiach mala až 800 stavov. V okolí postupne vznikali ďalšie malé dielne, ktoré sa počas 19. storočia postupne menili na mechanické tkáčovne. Podnikatelia si Rýmařovsko vyberali na zakladanie nových fabrík zámerne, v meste ani v jeho okolí totiž nebol žiadny priemyselný podnik a boli tu veľmi lacné pracovné sily s bohatou tkáčskou tradíciou.
Svoj podnik tu založil aj Flemmichovci, jeden zo starých krnovských rodov. Ich tkáčovňa síce vyrábala hodváb v  Rýmařove, ale ústredňu mala vo Viedni. Tam boli úpravne, farbiarne aj ateliéry, z Viedne sa tiež riadil nákup surovín aj predaj hotového tovaru. Flemmichovci vyrábali liturgické textílie, kravatové látky, padákový hodváb, listové šatovky aj šatky, a v 80. rokoch 19. storočia zamestnávali vyše 600 pracovníkov.
Aj dnes môžete v Krnove navštíviť pôvabnú Flemmichovu vilu, ktorú si v rokoch 1914 až 1917 nechal postaviť ako rodinné sídlo textilný továrnik Theodor Flemmich. Vilu využíva Mestské múzeum na organizovanie dlhodobých i krátkodobých výstav, často zameraných práve na textilnú tvorbu a tradície.

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 Foto: Hedva Český brokát, Moravian Sailesian Tourism

Rýmařov a český brokát

Takzvaná Technotrasa prepája miesta, na ktorých vás čakajú nezabudnuteľné zážitky pripomínajúce technickú a remeselnú vyspelosť severnej Moravy a Sliezska. Jednou z ich zastávok je expozícia textilky Hedva Český Brokát, ktorú pripravilo  Mestské múzeum v Rýmařove. V bývalej továrenskej hale uvidíte rôzne tkáčske stroje, výsledky práce tkáčov vrátane brokátových ornátov pre kňazov a tiež skutočný skvost – unikátnu kravatu z 20. rokov 20. storočia. Zážitok ponúka aj špeciálne prehliadky, pri ktorých nahliadnete priamo do výroby.
Tá súčasná je, samozrejme, rýdzo moderná, avšak príbeh výroby hodvábu, brokátu a kravát, ktoré poznal naozaj celý svet, začal na Rýmařovsku v roku 1890. Vtedy tu bratia Schielovci z Moravskej Třebovej založili továreň na hodvábne tkaniny. V čase najväčšej konjunktúry zamestnávala Schiel 2 200 ľudí na 1 100 stavoch rôznych typov a šírok. Vyrábali sa najmä látky na kravaty, šnurovačky, prešívané prikrývky, sedliacke šatky a šatovky, vo vojnových rokoch sa firma sústredila na výrobu hodvábu na padáky.
Firma úspešne prežila aj znárodnenie a totalitný režim, v roku 2014 vznikla odštiepením závodu 06 Rýmařov od Hedvy Moravská Třebová samostatná firma Hedva Český Brokát. Jej hlavným výrobným sortimentom zostali predovšetkým brokáty a tkaniny s bohatým vzorom. Používajú sa na šitie národných krojov, výrobu cirkevných ornátov, na tapety aj čalúnenie. Vyrábajú sa tu aj brokáty historické, vznikajú ako repliky podľa zachovaných historických textílií a šijú sa z nich historické kostýmy pre divadlo a film.

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 Foto: Hedva Brokát, Adolf Horsinka

Valašské Meziříčí a Moravská gobelínová manufaktúra

Rovnako skvelú povesť ako brokáty z Rýmařova majú aj výrobky Moravskej gobelínovej manufaktúry z Valašského Meziříčí. V roku 1898 ju založil akademický maliar Rudolf Schlatauer. S gobelínmi sa stretával na cestách po severských krajinách a rozhodol sa túto techniku ​​priviesť aj na  Valašsko, región preslávený dávnymi tkáčskymi tradíciami. Okrem reštaurovania historických tapisérií a výroby nových gobelínov a kobercov podľa moderných výtvarných predlôh tu dokonca na unikátnom desaťmetrovom ručnom tkáčskom stave vznikajú obrie divadelné opony, napríklad pre Novú scénu  Národného divadla v Prahe. Na prehliadke v gobelínke sa zoznámite s textilnou technikou, ktorá sa za posledných dvetisíc rokov takmer nezmenila, množstvo vecí si tu dokonca môžete aj osobne vyskúšať. Uvidíte historické stroje, pozriete sa na dobové filmy o dielňach a remeslách na Valašsku, občerstvíte sa v štýlovej kaviarni a prezriete si galériu moderných a historických tapisérií. Gobelínka ponúka aj kurzy na výrobu vlastného koberca.

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 Foto: Moravská gobelínka, Marian Jaslovský

Nový Jičín, Tonak a Churchill

Nekonečný príbeh pokrývok hláv rozmanitých farieb a strihov píše už niekoľko generácií novojičínsky  Tonak– TOváreň NA Klobúky. Áno, skutočne je to takto jednoduché: TONAK je skratka podniku, ktorý v  Novom Jičíne založil Ján Nepomuk Hückel už v roku 1799. Tradícia klobučníckeho remesla na Novojičínsku je ale oveľa staršia, klobúky sa tu vyrábali už v 17. storočí. V meste na vás čakajú dve celoročne otvorené atraktívne klobučnícke expozície. V návštevníckom centre vám prezradia, ako sa klobúky vyrábajú. Pútavou a zábavnou formou sa zoznámite s jednotlivými fázami pozoruhodného procesu ich výroby a po absolvovaní interaktívnej prehliadky môžete pokračovať do expozície klobúkov na miestnom zámku. Medzi vzácnymi artefaktmi objavíte napríklad pokrývku hlavy následníka rakúskeho trónu Ferdinanda d’Este, zavraždeného v Sarajeve, alebo klobúk prvého československého prezidenta T. G. Masaryka. Nie je tajomstvom, že v Novom Jičíne vyrobili aj klobúk pre britského premiéra Churchilla – napokon novojičínske klobúky nosí celý svet!

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 Foto: Jiří Danzinger

Obľúbili ste si modrotlač?

Tradičná technika je dokonca  pod ochranou UNESCO ako nehmotné dedičstvo niekoľkých stredoeurópskych krajín vrátane Českej republiky. Ak by ste radi výrobu modrotlače videli na vlastné oči, môžete na južnej Morave navštíviť dve rodinné modrotlačové dielne - modrotlačovú dielňu rodiny Danzingerovej v Olešnici  alebo dielňu  Arimo v Strážnici. Obe dielne organizujú prehliadky spojené s ukážkou výroby jedinečnej modrotlače, ku ktorej máme vrúcny vzťah i u nás na Slovensku.

Viac tipov a informácií o svetoznámych českých značkách nájdete na kudyznudy.cz

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    It is important to debunk the frequent misconceptions
    and myths surrounding the consequences of testosterone injections on penis size.

    Nervousness and low shallowness may finish up from this, which
    may negatively have an result on sexual confidence and exacerbate efficiency issues like ED.
    Low libido, exhaustion, melancholy, and erectile
    dysfunction are among the signs that many people encounter throughout this repressed condition.
    The majority of these are people who we regularly think of when we take
    into consideration bodybuilding and rising muscle mass. Several of these supplements have been shown in trials to enhance muscle growth and density by acting
    similarly to testosterone. Corticosteroids are often contained
    within the hormone cortisol, which can elevate men’s
    stress levels and have an effect on the function and health of the penis.

    After taking steroids, your physique wants ample time to build up testosterone to normal ranges of production. When you might be injecting
    synthetic testosterone produced by steroids, the consequential
    outcome after stopping the injections is low ranges of testosterone.
    One of the numerous symptoms of low testosterone is erectile dysfunction. However,
    the science says that this doesn’t have an impact on penis dimension. As the penis
    itself is solely a muscle and doesn’t produce hormones.

    But even when it doesn’t cause shrinkage, long-term
    PED use and continued repression of testosterone leads to erectile dysfunction and unhealthy sperm.

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