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Mladý divoch z Bad Hofgasteinu

Napísal Rakúska Turistika 17. január 2024

Kráča s dobou: už v 26 rokoch je Julian Scharfetter šéfom-juniorom horskej reštaurácie Weitmoser Schlossalm a baru Weitmoserin v Bad Hofgasteine. Je vždy minimálne o krok vpredu pred ostatnými a svojou kreatívnou koncepciou spája regionálnosť a svetovosť.

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Julian Scharfetter pri práci © Matthias Mach

Pohodový a cool, no zároveň spätý s domovinou: taký je Julian Scharfetter. Počas pobytov v zahraničí nazbieral veľa skúseností: na farme v talianskych horách spoznal, aký význam má regionálnosť a videl ako si majitelia vytvorili z gazdovstva svoj vlastný malý svet, ktorý tvorili reštaurácia, mäsiarstvo, syráreň a obchod s vínom. 

„Hlboko na mňa zapôsobilo a bol som prekvapený, čo všetko je možné urobiť z podniku, ak máte dobrú víziu a koncepciu,“ nadchýna sa Julian Scharfetter. Svoje kuchárske zručnosti mal neskôr možnosť ukázať aj v reštaurácii v Amsterdame ocenenej 2 Michelinskými hviezdičkami.

Napriek praktickým stážam na rôznych miestach v Rakúsku i v zahraničí nikdy nezabudol na svoje korene. S mnohými pracovnými skúsenosťami v batohu sa tento svetobežník po rôznych pobytoch v Taliansku, Nemecku a Holandsku a v rozličných regiónoch v Rakúsku, naposledy u vinárov v Burgenlande, vždy vrátil do milovaného Gasteinertalu. „Raz sa dostane človek do bodu, kedy chce realizovať svoje vlastné nápady,“ hovorí Julian Scharfetter. Vízia, ktorá stále poháňa tohto juniorského šéfkuchára, je spájať regionálne suroviny s tradičnými i zahraničnými receptami, napríklad pripravovať sushi z domácich druhov rýb alebo wrapy z údených pstruhov. Niet pochýb, že Julian Scharfetter vymýšľa niečo nové i teraz.

Rafinované jedlá namiesto nudného menu

Ak si Julian Scharfetter raz niečo vezme do hlavy, pustí sa do realizácie na plný plyn. S nadšením servíruje hosťom rafinované jedlá pri dolnej stanici lanovky Schlossalmbahn v Bad Hofgasteine či ručne pripravuje tatársky biftek na lyžiarskej chate. „Ľudia si myslia, že na lyžiarskych chatách dostanú len nezdravé jedlá a v après-ski baroch iba samé destiláty,“ hovorí Julian Scharfetter, „no ja ich presvedčím o opaku.“

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Weitmoser Schlossalm v Bad Hofgasteine © Manuel Marktl

A to sa tomuto kreatívnemu „divochovi“ aj darí: v bare Weitmoserin pri dolnej stanici lanovky v Bad Hofgasteine pripravuje mladý kuchár z Londýna rafinované pokrmy z regionálnych surovín, napríklad wrap plnený údenými pstruhmi z regiónu alebo čerstvé taštičky plnené mäsom. Ochutnať k nim môžete nielen vína od vinárov, ktoré tento lahodný mok sami vyrábajú z vlastného hrozna a kladú veľký dôraz na kvalitu, ale aj pivá zo súkromného pivovaru Trumer. Svojou kuchyňou chce Julian Scharfetter osloviť dovolenkárov i domácich: „Vždy mám radosť, keď si aj mladí ľudia s 20 eurami vo vrecku vyberú niečo dobré v bare Weitmoserin a radi sa sem vracajú.“ Po otvorení gastronomických prevádzok je bar Weitmoserin v prevádzke od stredy do nedele od 14:00 do 23:00 hod.

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Weitmoserin Bar & Bistronomy v Bad Hofgasteine © Manuel Marktl

V horskej reštaurácii Weitmoser Schlossalm vo výške 1.970 metrov môžu lyžiari utíšiť svoj hlad jedlami, ako sú salašnícky burger, čerstvý tatársky biftek z pinzgauského hovädzieho mäsa v biokvalite i bernské párky, ktoré patria k chatárskej klasike. „Dôležité je pre nás nanovo interpretovať klasicky pripravované jedlá a prekvapovať našich hostí,“ hovorí Julian Scharfetter. „Kladieme síce veľký dôraz na kvalitu, ale stojíme nohami pevne na zemi. Chceme, aby si z nášho jedálneho lístka všetci niečo vybrali a cítili sa dobre.“ V zmysle svojich zásad a používania regionálnych produktov dbá Julian Scharfetter na jasné kritériá kvality. Preto sa jeho podnik pýši označením pečaťou kvality  AMA GENUSS REGION, ktorá je zárukou kontroly kvality a regionálneho pôvodu surovín. Reštaurácia Weitmoser Schlossalm je otvorená od decembra do Veľkej noci.

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Interiér restaurácie Weitmoser Schlossalm © Manuel Marktl

Rodinný podnik s dlhou tradíciou

Napriek svojmu mladému veku má Julian Scharfetter veľa skúseností, čo pravdepodobne súvisí s jeho rodinou, ktorá sa gastronómii venuje už niekoľko storočí. Weitmoser Schlössl v údolí Gasteinertal spolu s gazdovstvom vlastní rodina už od roku 1752. „Je to klasické, veľmi tradičné gazdovstvo s bohatou históriou,“ objasňuje Julian Scharfetter, „a ja som mohol z tejto klenotnice skúseností načierať plným priehrštím.“ Julian Scharfetter vie, aký poklad má vo svojej rodine. „Som hrdý na to, ako naša rodina drží spolu a navzájom sa podporuje. Môj otec, moja mama, strýko i teta, oni všetci pracujú v rodinnej firme, a preto to tak všetko dobre funguje,“ zdôrazňuje Julian Scharfetter. Julian Scharfetter je svojej rodine nesmierne vďačný za vedomosti, ktoré mu odovzdali bez toho, aby mu prikazovali, čo má robiť. „Získal som tým veľa slobody, aby som mohol uskutočniť svoje nápady podľa vlastných predstáv,“ uzatvára Julian Scharfetter.

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Weitmoser Schlössl v Bad Hofgasteine © Weitmoser Schlossalm

14 komentárov

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    This may be as easy as having a giant press variation and skull crusher (or French press) on in the future, and a dip and kickback on another.

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